Deep down there is a good fear, related to respect. Fear of fire for example and knowing to not just stick your hand in it is fine. As we move up in stakes we can find our mind focusing on the wrong things. That 5x BB $1.25 raise on a 25 cent table is not any different then a $2.50 raise on the next table up or a $5 raise on a $1 table.
If you can not afford to lose your buy-in, for example when calling an all-in pre-flop bet while holding pocket Aces, then you should not be playing those stakes. You will eventually find yourself under attack when your opponents smell your fear. You will not protect your hands properly and also start second guessing your play. Do not allow the stakes to affect your game.
By the way, lack of fear is also not a great thing. Calling someone's big bet just because they have a small stack can cost more over the long run than is obvious at the time. You still need quality hands in these situations. When someone shoves their $5 on a 25 cent BB table, consider would you make the same call if the player had another $20 to continue with? I know the betting is capped with the short stack, some hands make sense to call here, stick to those hands based on your knowledge of the player.
Same thing goes for moving down in stakes. It can help you work on being more agressive, as long as you play with respect. Showing no fear will lead to a break down of discipline.
Find a comfort zone where you are playing winning poker and have goals to work towards.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Playing Styles, they can all help you.
My favorite site, carbonpoker.com, has been running a series of bounty tournaments with related promotions. The basic concept is 1/2 the buy-in is a bounty, the other 1/2 goes to the prize pool. This covers both SNG's and occasional MTT's.
For example: A $20 10-player SNG would allocate $10 towards ones individual bounty and the other $10 to the prize pool. Bounites are paid as someone is taken out, to the player responsible for taking them out. If you win, you get your bounty back.
These games require a different approach then most players apply to SNG or MTT play. The final prize pool is cut in 1/2, it makes no sense to play these games just for the final prize(s). Loose Agressive (LAG) play dominates here. A good TAG player can capitalize if they catch premium hold cards early and they hold up. Players here can attack with any Ace, sometimes any pair or any two paint cards. With bounties the prize, no short stack is allowed to die quietly. Better the short stacks win and stay in to be available later, then too allow someone else to take thier their bounty by checking to the river.
These games are helping, dare I say forcing, me to become a good LAG player. My proof is on sharkscope. I went from being down almost $200 about a month ago to being down just about $70. And sharkscope is not even accounting for the bounties the tournaments pay, just the final prizes. I recently placed well in some traditional games, a large freeroll as well as a 50 plus player MTT. I also won a weekly small private game I rarely made it past the bubble on before.
So go out and experiment, within reason, to find what works for you. The experience helps no matter what.
For example: A $20 10-player SNG would allocate $10 towards ones individual bounty and the other $10 to the prize pool. Bounites are paid as someone is taken out, to the player responsible for taking them out. If you win, you get your bounty back.
These games require a different approach then most players apply to SNG or MTT play. The final prize pool is cut in 1/2, it makes no sense to play these games just for the final prize(s). Loose Agressive (LAG) play dominates here. A good TAG player can capitalize if they catch premium hold cards early and they hold up. Players here can attack with any Ace, sometimes any pair or any two paint cards. With bounties the prize, no short stack is allowed to die quietly. Better the short stacks win and stay in to be available later, then too allow someone else to take thier their bounty by checking to the river.
These games are helping, dare I say forcing, me to become a good LAG player. My proof is on sharkscope. I went from being down almost $200 about a month ago to being down just about $70. And sharkscope is not even accounting for the bounties the tournaments pay, just the final prizes. I recently placed well in some traditional games, a large freeroll as well as a 50 plus player MTT. I also won a weekly small private game I rarely made it past the bubble on before.
So go out and experiment, within reason, to find what works for you. The experience helps no matter what.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Swimming with the fishies
Winning a big pot is very exciting. Chasing to win a big pot is even more exciting. Having someone chase to take a big pot from you is also exciting. It is where you are mentally after a hand though that is very important. Win or lose, do not get chip happy. It makes no sense on a cash table to be patient for 2 hours, triple your stack, to just donk off all of your winnings (if not your entire stack) playing superman.
Same if you take a bad beat. It took someone a while to crack a big hand (unfortunatly it was your hand) and it will take you a while to get your money back. Do not become a big fish trying to win back your money the way someone took it from you. Control is always important. As I have said many times, if you lost so much that you lose control then you are playing over your head. If you buy-in for $100 and on a $1 NL BB table and lose your $100, then you are done. But if you lost $10 on a 10 cent table, you can buy back in and keep playing in control.
BTW, check my new link on the right hand side for the upcoming Monday Night Poker Leage - Summer Classic. Low buy MTT which will have nice overlay prizes.
Same if you take a bad beat. It took someone a while to crack a big hand (unfortunatly it was your hand) and it will take you a while to get your money back. Do not become a big fish trying to win back your money the way someone took it from you. Control is always important. As I have said many times, if you lost so much that you lose control then you are playing over your head. If you buy-in for $100 and on a $1 NL BB table and lose your $100, then you are done. But if you lost $10 on a 10 cent table, you can buy back in and keep playing in control.
BTW, check my new link on the right hand side for the upcoming Monday Night Poker Leage - Summer Classic. Low buy MTT which will have nice overlay prizes.
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Personalizing Bank Roll Management
I have always tried to find a way to personalize bank roll management. Since I play lower stakes tables, online, I finally found a good way to work this out. This may not work for you, if it doesn't then keep wating for whatever makes sense to you to happen.
I will focuse on the hardest hand to play, which I think is pocket Aces. If you have pocket Aces, are in the big blind, and every player at the table shoves all-in, would you muck? Ok, lets make this a little easier. You have pocket Aces and one other player has gone all in pre-flop, you are the only player left to act, you are going to call. At this point, about 15% of the time you are heads up you will loose the hand. And since many times at lower stakes you will end up with more then one other player in the hand, your odds of losing your money keep going up.
So, ask yourself, are you prepared to lose all the money you have on the table and still have enough left in your bank roll to keep playing your game confidently? If not, you are playing over your head, that is outside your bank roll.
Thus, my version of bank roll management is simple. If I were to lose my entire buy-in, plus potentially any winnings I had built up, will that cause me to freak out? Will it put me on tilt? Will it force me to have to move down in stakes? Will it basicly be more of a negative experience then is acceptable? If so, then I am not using good bank roll management.
I will focuse on the hardest hand to play, which I think is pocket Aces. If you have pocket Aces, are in the big blind, and every player at the table shoves all-in, would you muck? Ok, lets make this a little easier. You have pocket Aces and one other player has gone all in pre-flop, you are the only player left to act, you are going to call. At this point, about 15% of the time you are heads up you will loose the hand. And since many times at lower stakes you will end up with more then one other player in the hand, your odds of losing your money keep going up.
So, ask yourself, are you prepared to lose all the money you have on the table and still have enough left in your bank roll to keep playing your game confidently? If not, you are playing over your head, that is outside your bank roll.
Thus, my version of bank roll management is simple. If I were to lose my entire buy-in, plus potentially any winnings I had built up, will that cause me to freak out? Will it put me on tilt? Will it force me to have to move down in stakes? Will it basicly be more of a negative experience then is acceptable? If so, then I am not using good bank roll management.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Refresher Course.
Getting back to basics can be a good thing. As we move up in stakes, sometimes we need to take a step back to maintain discipline. Pride is not a good thing when playing poker. You do not have to prove yourself to anyone. What you do have to do is maintain control.
One way to refocus is to drop back down a level or two. On cash tables, I also recommend restricting your buy-in as well. Force yourself to stick to your game plan. This should help you admit and/or discover what was going wrong with your game.
Sometimes the only problem is the fear of losing. Stepping up from a $5 buy-in to $10 is not a big step. But the next level of $20 or $25 is going to have a mental impact. When you get to a $100 game, well you better be prepared. It is very easy to play $5 games with a $200 or less BR and show no fear. You will be playing $50 and $100 games with a $500 BR, or maybe just risking your $200 or less you have. Now the pressure is on, even if you won't admit it. One big hand and you lose 25%, 50%, or most of your BR.
Lets put this into perspective. At the lower levels, you took risks and enough paid off. For a lot of players, the risks do not pay off enough and they are forced to play better poker. But for you, they are paying off. So up you go in stakes, you think you are playing good poker. Then you hit a level where those risks are not paying off. You realize that the style you are playing is against the odds many times, so now you have to make some changes. Step down a level or two and learn to play better.
As weird as it seems, you will actually win more at the lower levels as you improve your game. I feel that buying in short at this point forces you to make better decisions. If you can learn to play your large pile of chips, as if you are short stacked, you will force yourself to play better poker. Yuor chip stack will not stop someone from calling you with what they think (or know) is a better hand. When your pocket Kings miss the flop, betting into a Ace on the board would be not make sense if you are a short stack, so why would it make sense if you have a large stack? If you will not chase when short stacked, learn to stop doing it when you have a big stack.
One more train of thought here. Since we play poker to win, never assume higher stakes mean larger winnings. You can move up to a $100 table and after several hours walk away with $125. But back on the $25 table you may have been walking away with $75 after a few hours. I'd rather make $50 on the lower table then $25 on the higher one. And if you run into a cooler, the lower stakes still have an advantage when it comes to protecting your BR. Eventually you want to tripple up on the $100 table, if you can do that on a $25 table. Move up in stakes to make more money. if that is not working, find where you make the most money and work on your game there.
One way to refocus is to drop back down a level or two. On cash tables, I also recommend restricting your buy-in as well. Force yourself to stick to your game plan. This should help you admit and/or discover what was going wrong with your game.
Sometimes the only problem is the fear of losing. Stepping up from a $5 buy-in to $10 is not a big step. But the next level of $20 or $25 is going to have a mental impact. When you get to a $100 game, well you better be prepared. It is very easy to play $5 games with a $200 or less BR and show no fear. You will be playing $50 and $100 games with a $500 BR, or maybe just risking your $200 or less you have. Now the pressure is on, even if you won't admit it. One big hand and you lose 25%, 50%, or most of your BR.
Lets put this into perspective. At the lower levels, you took risks and enough paid off. For a lot of players, the risks do not pay off enough and they are forced to play better poker. But for you, they are paying off. So up you go in stakes, you think you are playing good poker. Then you hit a level where those risks are not paying off. You realize that the style you are playing is against the odds many times, so now you have to make some changes. Step down a level or two and learn to play better.
As weird as it seems, you will actually win more at the lower levels as you improve your game. I feel that buying in short at this point forces you to make better decisions. If you can learn to play your large pile of chips, as if you are short stacked, you will force yourself to play better poker. Yuor chip stack will not stop someone from calling you with what they think (or know) is a better hand. When your pocket Kings miss the flop, betting into a Ace on the board would be not make sense if you are a short stack, so why would it make sense if you have a large stack? If you will not chase when short stacked, learn to stop doing it when you have a big stack.
One more train of thought here. Since we play poker to win, never assume higher stakes mean larger winnings. You can move up to a $100 table and after several hours walk away with $125. But back on the $25 table you may have been walking away with $75 after a few hours. I'd rather make $50 on the lower table then $25 on the higher one. And if you run into a cooler, the lower stakes still have an advantage when it comes to protecting your BR. Eventually you want to tripple up on the $100 table, if you can do that on a $25 table. Move up in stakes to make more money. if that is not working, find where you make the most money and work on your game there.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Self Accountability (Your to Blaim)
DONKEY! CALLING STATION! FISH!
Online poker is a very hard game to play. In NL live poker you see about 20 hands an hour. To sit at a $1/$2 live table your max buy-in is from $200 - $300. Online, you can see 60 to 100 hands a hour. Depending on the stakes you play, I'll assume you play $1 BB or less if you are reading this, then yu are buying in from $5 to $100 max. A live Tournament at a casino will cost you somewhere close to $100 to play. Online you can play for about $2, some sites for pennies, all day long.
On top of this, the majority bad of online players do not risk losing a lot at any one time, thus their tendancy to take huge risks. This constant barrage of low quality players are quite a challenge to protect your money from. There are players that win playing online. It is not the software that makes someone a losing player, it is not the bad players either. The bad players may take down some big pots playing bad cards, but they give it all away, plus some, playing those same bad cards against the winning players.
Argue as much as you want about this. The winning players will suffer their bad beats against the bad players, but the winning players learn to also control their loses. They adjust constantly to those bad players. Losing players have trouble adjusting. Winning players know when to muck over pairs, 2 pairs, and wait to risk all their money. Losing players keep putting money in the pot, even though thy played good cards.
The more you refuse to admit you may not have the best hand, the more you will lose. The more you put all your money in the pot, agianst small pots specially, the more you will lose big pots. Drawing hands sometimes are atually the odds on favorites to win, learn that. Stop losing $10 when you called a $9 bet into a $1 pot, jjst because you have TPTK at the time. Or if you make the call, have the better outs.
IMHO, if you can win consistently online then you should do even better live. Unless you have some uncontrollable twitches or noises you make. If you can not win online, do not expect to do any better live. A losing player online will lose just as much live, proportional to the amount of hands they play. Since playing live they will probably have more money on the line at any on time, they will just end up losing more money then they would have online anyways, and in less time.
Online poker is a very hard game to play. In NL live poker you see about 20 hands an hour. To sit at a $1/$2 live table your max buy-in is from $200 - $300. Online, you can see 60 to 100 hands a hour. Depending on the stakes you play, I'll assume you play $1 BB or less if you are reading this, then yu are buying in from $5 to $100 max. A live Tournament at a casino will cost you somewhere close to $100 to play. Online you can play for about $2, some sites for pennies, all day long.
On top of this, the majority bad of online players do not risk losing a lot at any one time, thus their tendancy to take huge risks. This constant barrage of low quality players are quite a challenge to protect your money from. There are players that win playing online. It is not the software that makes someone a losing player, it is not the bad players either. The bad players may take down some big pots playing bad cards, but they give it all away, plus some, playing those same bad cards against the winning players.
Argue as much as you want about this. The winning players will suffer their bad beats against the bad players, but the winning players learn to also control their loses. They adjust constantly to those bad players. Losing players have trouble adjusting. Winning players know when to muck over pairs, 2 pairs, and wait to risk all their money. Losing players keep putting money in the pot, even though thy played good cards.
The more you refuse to admit you may not have the best hand, the more you will lose. The more you put all your money in the pot, agianst small pots specially, the more you will lose big pots. Drawing hands sometimes are atually the odds on favorites to win, learn that. Stop losing $10 when you called a $9 bet into a $1 pot, jjst because you have TPTK at the time. Or if you make the call, have the better outs.
IMHO, if you can win consistently online then you should do even better live. Unless you have some uncontrollable twitches or noises you make. If you can not win online, do not expect to do any better live. A losing player online will lose just as much live, proportional to the amount of hands they play. Since playing live they will probably have more money on the line at any on time, they will just end up losing more money then they would have online anyways, and in less time.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Playing on multiple sites.
Would you go to the same casino and sit with the same players all the time? Hopefully not. So why play on just one online site, where over a period of days you tend to just play the same core players over and over? I do think there is a general advantage to knowing your competition, but there is also a benefit in playing different players.
Your objective is to keep developing your game, to win more and more. A different site can help you with this. Not just with different opponents, but different structures. Also, different numbers of players in their tournamants. A site like carbonpoker.com allows you to play in tournaments against a reasonable number of other players. Smaller payouts, easier to make it into the money if you are a good enough player. Large sites like FullTiltPoker.com force you to play tournaments a lot differently, because of the number of players in them. The reward though is going to be much greater, plsu their tournaments will pay out to more places.
You may discover that some sites offer additional or different tables (buy-in, structure, players) that you end up doing better on. For example, some sites have cash tables that cap how much one can bet total per hand. Some sites have Heads Up SNG's that have buy-ins that you like better. And some will offer tournaments in your buy-in range at better times during the day then others do. And there is always some type of promotion going on, you may find one sites promotions that month are better for you then the other ones available.
If you have a limited bank roll, and start winning, look into investing some of those winnings into trying out other sites.
Your objective is to keep developing your game, to win more and more. A different site can help you with this. Not just with different opponents, but different structures. Also, different numbers of players in their tournamants. A site like carbonpoker.com allows you to play in tournaments against a reasonable number of other players. Smaller payouts, easier to make it into the money if you are a good enough player. Large sites like FullTiltPoker.com force you to play tournaments a lot differently, because of the number of players in them. The reward though is going to be much greater, plsu their tournaments will pay out to more places.
You may discover that some sites offer additional or different tables (buy-in, structure, players) that you end up doing better on. For example, some sites have cash tables that cap how much one can bet total per hand. Some sites have Heads Up SNG's that have buy-ins that you like better. And some will offer tournaments in your buy-in range at better times during the day then others do. And there is always some type of promotion going on, you may find one sites promotions that month are better for you then the other ones available.
If you have a limited bank roll, and start winning, look into investing some of those winnings into trying out other sites.
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