DONKEY! CALLING STATION! FISH!
Online poker is a very hard game to play. In NL live poker you see about 20 hands an hour. To sit at a $1/$2 live table your max buy-in is from $200 - $300. Online, you can see 60 to 100 hands a hour. Depending on the stakes you play, I'll assume you play $1 BB or less if you are reading this, then yu are buying in from $5 to $100 max. A live Tournament at a casino will cost you somewhere close to $100 to play. Online you can play for about $2, some sites for pennies, all day long.
On top of this, the majority bad of online players do not risk losing a lot at any one time, thus their tendancy to take huge risks. This constant barrage of low quality players are quite a challenge to protect your money from. There are players that win playing online. It is not the software that makes someone a losing player, it is not the bad players either. The bad players may take down some big pots playing bad cards, but they give it all away, plus some, playing those same bad cards against the winning players.
Argue as much as you want about this. The winning players will suffer their bad beats against the bad players, but the winning players learn to also control their loses. They adjust constantly to those bad players. Losing players have trouble adjusting. Winning players know when to muck over pairs, 2 pairs, and wait to risk all their money. Losing players keep putting money in the pot, even though thy played good cards.
The more you refuse to admit you may not have the best hand, the more you will lose. The more you put all your money in the pot, agianst small pots specially, the more you will lose big pots. Drawing hands sometimes are atually the odds on favorites to win, learn that. Stop losing $10 when you called a $9 bet into a $1 pot, jjst because you have TPTK at the time. Or if you make the call, have the better outs.
IMHO, if you can win consistently online then you should do even better live. Unless you have some uncontrollable twitches or noises you make. If you can not win online, do not expect to do any better live. A losing player online will lose just as much live, proportional to the amount of hands they play. Since playing live they will probably have more money on the line at any on time, they will just end up losing more money then they would have online anyways, and in less time.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Playing on multiple sites.
Would you go to the same casino and sit with the same players all the time? Hopefully not. So why play on just one online site, where over a period of days you tend to just play the same core players over and over? I do think there is a general advantage to knowing your competition, but there is also a benefit in playing different players.
Your objective is to keep developing your game, to win more and more. A different site can help you with this. Not just with different opponents, but different structures. Also, different numbers of players in their tournamants. A site like carbonpoker.com allows you to play in tournaments against a reasonable number of other players. Smaller payouts, easier to make it into the money if you are a good enough player. Large sites like FullTiltPoker.com force you to play tournaments a lot differently, because of the number of players in them. The reward though is going to be much greater, plsu their tournaments will pay out to more places.
You may discover that some sites offer additional or different tables (buy-in, structure, players) that you end up doing better on. For example, some sites have cash tables that cap how much one can bet total per hand. Some sites have Heads Up SNG's that have buy-ins that you like better. And some will offer tournaments in your buy-in range at better times during the day then others do. And there is always some type of promotion going on, you may find one sites promotions that month are better for you then the other ones available.
If you have a limited bank roll, and start winning, look into investing some of those winnings into trying out other sites.
Your objective is to keep developing your game, to win more and more. A different site can help you with this. Not just with different opponents, but different structures. Also, different numbers of players in their tournamants. A site like carbonpoker.com allows you to play in tournaments against a reasonable number of other players. Smaller payouts, easier to make it into the money if you are a good enough player. Large sites like FullTiltPoker.com force you to play tournaments a lot differently, because of the number of players in them. The reward though is going to be much greater, plsu their tournaments will pay out to more places.
You may discover that some sites offer additional or different tables (buy-in, structure, players) that you end up doing better on. For example, some sites have cash tables that cap how much one can bet total per hand. Some sites have Heads Up SNG's that have buy-ins that you like better. And some will offer tournaments in your buy-in range at better times during the day then others do. And there is always some type of promotion going on, you may find one sites promotions that month are better for you then the other ones available.
If you have a limited bank roll, and start winning, look into investing some of those winnings into trying out other sites.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Variance and Odds.
I do not believe that you can realistically measure variance in your poker play. You can track it, but can you really measure it? Tracking systems do not take emotional factors into place. They also do not distinguish between your bad decisions verus good ones, bad beats you put on others versus being put on you.
A good example is pocket Aces. Let's say you find it hard to fold them post flop. A tight passive (TP) player loses a lot with pocket Aces, or does not maximize thier winnings. A good tight agressive (TAG) player will lose less with them, and maximize their winnings. The TP player will not protect their hand post flop and end up in many situations with multiple players seeing the flop and cracking Aces. The TAG player will isolate and defend their Aces, possibly going all-in preflop based on their read of the table.
Either style of play, when the flop hits, some players will know when to muck their Aces while most will play them no matter what is going on. This is where variance can not tell you much. Since most players mix their game up, a tracker can not compensate for an individual's variance in play.
Another factor is the environment. Someone playing at online micro levels may have developed a style of play that at live cash levels is nothing but losing play. You get caught up in the fact that online you can limit your loses to $10, $25, $50 etc.. Then you move up online or live and there you sit with $300 in front of you. Or a live $1/$2 player moves up to $3/$6 and has 3x their normal buy-in to deal with.
This brings me to odds. On micro tables odds are meaningless. Let's be realistic here, you have $25 in front of you. You bet or call $2 to see a flop with pocket Queens and you hit a set on the flop. There s a flush chase out there, a possible straight as well could already have hit. But you hit a set, and you value bet it. Someone raises, heck a player in the middle smooth calls. At this point, do you muck when on the turn someone pushes all in for 3x the pot? Probably not, you do not have a lot to risk. But lets go to a $300 buy-in and you put $15 into the pot pre-flop. Next thing you know someone on the turn is forcing you all in to protect $40 out of your pocket so far. What do you do now? (In my one live game last year I was in this situation. I flopped a King high flush and felt a player UTG was betting a flopped set. I reraised their pot sized bet, they came back all in. The board never paired, I won. Odds were not favorable for them to call my bet, so they shoved back. Odds were slightly in my favor to stay ahead. How do you measure variance here copared to the next time they flop a set and win or lose?
Do not get caught up using tools to replace your gut. Do not call just beacuse of the odds, someone may be milking the pot, you are already drawing dead. If you feel that, then let them have the pot. If you flopped a flush and someone pushed all-in for 5x the pot, know they probably have a set or 2 pair. Regardless of the odds you can not muck here, just because you do not have the right pots odds, correct?
If you are maximum your winnings and limiting your loses, and you can see that you are, then avoid looking at variance - something that is not really that trackable IMHO.
A good example is pocket Aces. Let's say you find it hard to fold them post flop. A tight passive (TP) player loses a lot with pocket Aces, or does not maximize thier winnings. A good tight agressive (TAG) player will lose less with them, and maximize their winnings. The TP player will not protect their hand post flop and end up in many situations with multiple players seeing the flop and cracking Aces. The TAG player will isolate and defend their Aces, possibly going all-in preflop based on their read of the table.
Either style of play, when the flop hits, some players will know when to muck their Aces while most will play them no matter what is going on. This is where variance can not tell you much. Since most players mix their game up, a tracker can not compensate for an individual's variance in play.
Another factor is the environment. Someone playing at online micro levels may have developed a style of play that at live cash levels is nothing but losing play. You get caught up in the fact that online you can limit your loses to $10, $25, $50 etc.. Then you move up online or live and there you sit with $300 in front of you. Or a live $1/$2 player moves up to $3/$6 and has 3x their normal buy-in to deal with.
This brings me to odds. On micro tables odds are meaningless. Let's be realistic here, you have $25 in front of you. You bet or call $2 to see a flop with pocket Queens and you hit a set on the flop. There s a flush chase out there, a possible straight as well could already have hit. But you hit a set, and you value bet it. Someone raises, heck a player in the middle smooth calls. At this point, do you muck when on the turn someone pushes all in for 3x the pot? Probably not, you do not have a lot to risk. But lets go to a $300 buy-in and you put $15 into the pot pre-flop. Next thing you know someone on the turn is forcing you all in to protect $40 out of your pocket so far. What do you do now? (In my one live game last year I was in this situation. I flopped a King high flush and felt a player UTG was betting a flopped set. I reraised their pot sized bet, they came back all in. The board never paired, I won. Odds were not favorable for them to call my bet, so they shoved back. Odds were slightly in my favor to stay ahead. How do you measure variance here copared to the next time they flop a set and win or lose?
Do not get caught up using tools to replace your gut. Do not call just beacuse of the odds, someone may be milking the pot, you are already drawing dead. If you feel that, then let them have the pot. If you flopped a flush and someone pushed all-in for 5x the pot, know they probably have a set or 2 pair. Regardless of the odds you can not muck here, just because you do not have the right pots odds, correct?
If you are maximum your winnings and limiting your loses, and you can see that you are, then avoid looking at variance - something that is not really that trackable IMHO.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Betting the Nutz.
It is not that often that you flop (or turn) a great hand and also get paid off. I am talking flopping a full house or quads for the most part, maybe even a straight flush. By the turn you know if you have the absolute nuts with these hands. Hands like a set, the top of a straight, or a flush are great, but can be cracked on the river, you can never say for sure they are safe on the turn.
Betting the absolute nutz, before the river, takes some skill. You can not do this on a very tight table. You need to have a player or two in the hand that see value in chasing, that you know live to chase. Also helps to have someone that is either trying to get even with you and/or that thinks you over bet your hands.
The objective is to bet your high winning percentage hand on the flop the same way you would a very good but beatable hand. Like protecting your set or straight from a flush draw. This is similar to the river shove to induce a call, but works much better as you tend to get players willing to risk more on a chase then on a weak connection after the river.
For example: I had pocket 9's, bet them preflop 3x BB with one caller. The flop was Q 9 9 with 2 clubs. I bet the pot from UTG, the other player tanked then reraised 3x my bet. A this point I have more than I can ask for. If I just smooth call they may come to their senses so I shove back (which is pretty much 2x their raise), of course they call. To my surprise they did not even have a Queen, held Ace something with one club. If I had checked this down to the river, the traditional approach, they would have possibly made one small probe bet then mucked to any pressure on any street.
Always try and figure out, based on the other players in the hand, how can you make the most money every hand you are betting. If someone thinks I am bluffing, I'd rather push with the nutz then with a bluff.
Betting the absolute nutz, before the river, takes some skill. You can not do this on a very tight table. You need to have a player or two in the hand that see value in chasing, that you know live to chase. Also helps to have someone that is either trying to get even with you and/or that thinks you over bet your hands.
The objective is to bet your high winning percentage hand on the flop the same way you would a very good but beatable hand. Like protecting your set or straight from a flush draw. This is similar to the river shove to induce a call, but works much better as you tend to get players willing to risk more on a chase then on a weak connection after the river.
For example: I had pocket 9's, bet them preflop 3x BB with one caller. The flop was Q 9 9 with 2 clubs. I bet the pot from UTG, the other player tanked then reraised 3x my bet. A this point I have more than I can ask for. If I just smooth call they may come to their senses so I shove back (which is pretty much 2x their raise), of course they call. To my surprise they did not even have a Queen, held Ace something with one club. If I had checked this down to the river, the traditional approach, they would have possibly made one small probe bet then mucked to any pressure on any street.
Always try and figure out, based on the other players in the hand, how can you make the most money every hand you are betting. If someone thinks I am bluffing, I'd rather push with the nutz then with a bluff.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Nothing up my sleeves.
Poker is all about people being mislead, in one way or another. Sometimes you are not doing this on purpose, others just force themselves to not believe the truth. Sometimes you are the one that refuses to belive the obvious.
The net result is what it is, regardless of how it was performed. Some people focus too much on the path to the result, rather than how they ended up there. It really does not matter if you read the other person's cards right, you also have to read the other person. If you know someone will call any bet to see the river, then you are the one that can control your loses.
Do not mislead yourself, stop allowing other players to be in control. Control your game, if you are out of control then stop and regroup. Keep in mind that if you risk your stack several times a game, the odds are that you will eventually lose your stack no matter how tight you play.
Do not allow others to trap you into risking your stack. Laying down good cards is not a bad thing to do when someone attacks the pot after the flop. So what if they called your big preflop bet and the flop was all low cards. If they attack back, they can have anything from 2 pair to who knows how many outs. Protecting lets say $5 invested against a $50 shove is many times the wrong thing to do. Now if your pocket cards improved on the flop, then go for it. Just do not put yourself into the mindset that you can not lay down your hand, because, that is when you are no longer in control.
Some players know I play a semi-tight agressive game, most think I am very tight agressive. A few think I am a fish, a chaser, a donkey. There are some players, sharks, that target tight players. They prefer the weak tight players, but will take on the agressive ones as well. They will for example call your 10x Bb preflop bet with any 2 cards. Nothing up their sleeves! They pretty much know though when they are ahead of a tight player. They will risk a bit up front, and just muck when they need to. They do not care about playing pocket Aces, anyone can do that. They care about breaking pocket Aces, Kings, etc...
Next time you win a big hand, or lose one, take a step back and make sure you were in control. If you were out of control, ask yourself how you got there. If you can get others out of control, make sure you protect yourself from being mislead the same way.
The net result is what it is, regardless of how it was performed. Some people focus too much on the path to the result, rather than how they ended up there. It really does not matter if you read the other person's cards right, you also have to read the other person. If you know someone will call any bet to see the river, then you are the one that can control your loses.
Do not mislead yourself, stop allowing other players to be in control. Control your game, if you are out of control then stop and regroup. Keep in mind that if you risk your stack several times a game, the odds are that you will eventually lose your stack no matter how tight you play.
Do not allow others to trap you into risking your stack. Laying down good cards is not a bad thing to do when someone attacks the pot after the flop. So what if they called your big preflop bet and the flop was all low cards. If they attack back, they can have anything from 2 pair to who knows how many outs. Protecting lets say $5 invested against a $50 shove is many times the wrong thing to do. Now if your pocket cards improved on the flop, then go for it. Just do not put yourself into the mindset that you can not lay down your hand, because, that is when you are no longer in control.
Some players know I play a semi-tight agressive game, most think I am very tight agressive. A few think I am a fish, a chaser, a donkey. There are some players, sharks, that target tight players. They prefer the weak tight players, but will take on the agressive ones as well. They will for example call your 10x Bb preflop bet with any 2 cards. Nothing up their sleeves! They pretty much know though when they are ahead of a tight player. They will risk a bit up front, and just muck when they need to. They do not care about playing pocket Aces, anyone can do that. They care about breaking pocket Aces, Kings, etc...
Next time you win a big hand, or lose one, take a step back and make sure you were in control. If you were out of control, ask yourself how you got there. If you can get others out of control, make sure you protect yourself from being mislead the same way.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Staying In Control.
HAPPY TURKEY DAY!
My worst opponent is myself. I have a great game plan, it works when I stick to it. Yet I find the fast pace of online play a challenge. The challenge is taking time to think. My cash game is fine at the fast pace, it is my MTT and SNG play that suffers.
I have to come to an understanding with myself. In tournaments, if I am going to play certain hands, I have to be willing to muck them as well. I trap myself with hands like AK suited, pocket Jacks and pocket Queens. My game plan is to play those hands like any other pair, to not risk my tournament life on them if the flop does not help me or is against me. Yet I find myself making quick decisions rather than thinking my post-flop actions out.
Another problem area I have in tournaments is protecting a big chip lead. I can battle my way to the money from mid stack or worse. When I get an early chip lead I lose control, even though I know better. I take shots I should not be even thinking about. One can argue that to win you have to use your chips, I agree. But early on there is no reason to be reckless, no matter how large an early chip lead one has. I still forget this, one more area in my tournament play that I need to get a handle on.
What areas of your game do you not have control over? What are you doing to fix this? If you can not think of any areas, you are lying to yourself. If you know them but do not work on them, you are hurting yourself. You are playing to win, short and long term. Can you adjust your styles and strategy to the game at hand? Can you maintain control?
My worst opponent is myself. I have a great game plan, it works when I stick to it. Yet I find the fast pace of online play a challenge. The challenge is taking time to think. My cash game is fine at the fast pace, it is my MTT and SNG play that suffers.
I have to come to an understanding with myself. In tournaments, if I am going to play certain hands, I have to be willing to muck them as well. I trap myself with hands like AK suited, pocket Jacks and pocket Queens. My game plan is to play those hands like any other pair, to not risk my tournament life on them if the flop does not help me or is against me. Yet I find myself making quick decisions rather than thinking my post-flop actions out.
Another problem area I have in tournaments is protecting a big chip lead. I can battle my way to the money from mid stack or worse. When I get an early chip lead I lose control, even though I know better. I take shots I should not be even thinking about. One can argue that to win you have to use your chips, I agree. But early on there is no reason to be reckless, no matter how large an early chip lead one has. I still forget this, one more area in my tournament play that I need to get a handle on.
What areas of your game do you not have control over? What are you doing to fix this? If you can not think of any areas, you are lying to yourself. If you know them but do not work on them, you are hurting yourself. You are playing to win, short and long term. Can you adjust your styles and strategy to the game at hand? Can you maintain control?
Sunday, November 11, 2007
When you are weak!
Some days you will appear weak to other players at the table. At that point, you will be forced to play TIER I hands and also improve on the flop. Many players will take a loose aggressive (LAG) stance when they think someone at the table is playing scared. You may have made a great lay down or were just playing very LAG yourself and knew you were beat. Whatever caused you to appear weak doesn’t matter now.
If several players are calling most or all of your pre-flop raises, then ask yourself why. What did you do, even if in the past, to make them want to take you on when you raise? Now use that against them. Muck your AK when the flop misses and they attack, they probably called you with any 2 suited or connected cards.
They will attack you when you have the best hand, so why not wait until you flop a big set or better? Then bet like you do when you were preceived to be weak, whatever pattern that was. If the flop is dangerous be aggressive when you can be. It is NOT the best flop when your AK is just TPTK. But when you see a 10 J Q off, with your AK, bet like you would with a under pair. If they just call, watch for a flush draw. Of course they could have a set as well, so they will play back at you. They will attack back though, to try and take the pot down if they think you will fold like you did before or if they think they are protecting their hand. You may lose a few of these hands, that will happen sometimes. But the only way to get their respect, and their money, is to show them you are much smarter than they are.
Can you fold pocket Aces post flop? Can you fold a flopped straight when the board is yelling flush? Do you refrain from chasing a flush against a paired board, especially against TAG players? If you answered NO to these 3 questions, you probably run into a lot of big loses, plus I am sure you have handed out your share of bad beats.
If several players are calling most or all of your pre-flop raises, then ask yourself why. What did you do, even if in the past, to make them want to take you on when you raise? Now use that against them. Muck your AK when the flop misses and they attack, they probably called you with any 2 suited or connected cards.
They will attack you when you have the best hand, so why not wait until you flop a big set or better? Then bet like you do when you were preceived to be weak, whatever pattern that was. If the flop is dangerous be aggressive when you can be. It is NOT the best flop when your AK is just TPTK. But when you see a 10 J Q off, with your AK, bet like you would with a under pair. If they just call, watch for a flush draw. Of course they could have a set as well, so they will play back at you. They will attack back though, to try and take the pot down if they think you will fold like you did before or if they think they are protecting their hand. You may lose a few of these hands, that will happen sometimes. But the only way to get their respect, and their money, is to show them you are much smarter than they are.
Can you fold pocket Aces post flop? Can you fold a flopped straight when the board is yelling flush? Do you refrain from chasing a flush against a paired board, especially against TAG players? If you answered NO to these 3 questions, you probably run into a lot of big loses, plus I am sure you have handed out your share of bad beats.
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